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Juiced
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The All Electric Racing Team

The "Juice Cafe" Racer
From start to Ton up!

3/5/2011 Update : It runs!

It .....is.....Alive....ALIVE!!! (Well the tire spins anyway.)

After a run to Lowe's (yes Lowe's) for a few connectors and wire,
The motorcycle runs, and runs well. I am so tempted to take it down
the street, but I will wait until it is truly street legal.

Other work today: Mounted the relays for the headlight, GPS and
Horn. We attached the GPS/Speedometer and set up the system
battery. The rest of the day was spent ordering the last few things
we did not know we needed until we started to get things together.
That is normal as each motorcycle is a unique build.

54 Days and counting!

 

3/6/2011 Update: Wires, Wires, Wires.

Today we wired up a charging port extension. The center battery
box is covered by the top two boxes so the charger port is
not accessible. I wanted to run remote ports anyway since it
makes it easier to charge everything up with all the ports
aligned up. This center box had to be done first so
that I could get it secured into the battery rack. The other
3 boxes can be reached much easier with the fairing off.

We also changed the rest of the motor and structural
bolts to a grade 8 for that little bit of extra insurance.

53 days and counting!

 

3/7/11 update: Fuses!

When it comes to an electric vehicle, a fuse can save your
life! If nothing else, it may save all of your hard work!



A fuse block was added (we have a fuse on the controller too!)
and the final wiring has begun. Now when I turn on the key power
"ICE ignition" switch, the controller and GPS/Speedometer
activate. I have one more all in one switch coming in the mail.
The headlight switch and horn run the ....headlight and horn.

The blinker switch is used as the emergency cut off.  Blinkers
are not required here and I found drivers pay more attention to a
rider pointing to the direction they want to go than a blinker.

52 days and counting!

 

3/8/11 update: More Wires?

The handlebar switch came in so everything has been wired up with
the exception of the headlight, taillight and horn. The handlebar switch
powers their associated relays which were wired up and tested today.



Since everything goes through separate relays, there should not be
any electrical strain on the key switch, which was also mounted today.
All it provides is relay coil power.

The aluminum key switch mount will be sanded and painted when
we tear down the bike for final cosmetic painting and cable trimming.

First fit, then finish. : )

52 days and..... still counting!

3/9/11 update: The Headway auxiliary battery!


Today we took a 13 pound, 12V 20AH Lead SLA battery
that runs all of the 12 volt system and replaced it with
a 6.5 pound, 12V 20AH Headway battery.  Since we had
a few extra Headways lying around, it was time to put them
to good use.  We have a 55w headlight, a few LED lights,
a GPS and a few relays so 20 AH will be more than enough
for a day’s ride on the Electric racer.   It will be charged
with the same individual chargers used on the rest of the
bike so that every pair of batteries will be fully balanced.

 

Tomorrow, it will be installed and tested…..fun stuff!  

51 days and counting!

 

3/10/11 Update. Protecting those Headways!


I can monitor the main pack with a meter as I am riding
and I know my range, but what about after I am done
riding for the day?  What if I am in a hurry and leave
the key in? The main pack can survive for days since
the controller uses very little when the bike is just
sitting there and there is no DC to DC converter to kill
the main pack.  The 12V Aux battery is a different story.

I designed the system this time to run off a 12v main relay for one
simple reason, auto cutoff when the Aux battery system gets too low.  

This device will keep ALL of the batteries from draining to
….death.   How you ask?

This "Battery Protector" is connected (via the main key switch)
to the 12v pack and will shut off when the AUX Headway
pack drains to 11.3 volts. Well before any damage can occur.
Sooooo,  if I leave it on, that device will cut off the
12 v system which will cut off the main power pack too.

OK Ed, what if it drains too much during the ride?

That should not happen since the battery pack will
run the 12v system for well over 2.5 hours even if everything
was on. That would be the headlight, horn, taillight,
all the relays….etc. (Which would not happen….ever.)

AND (my favorite part) a switch was added to the
system that will allow me to tap the main pack and
energize the main contactor (which also energizes the
controller) so if something does go awry, I can still
“limp” home and not need to push my favorite ride.

 

Idiot proof EV? Time will tell.  

50 days and counting....

 

 

 

3/11/11 Update:  That’s the brakes ….Kid.


We started to wire up the brake lights today.
 The hard part will be where to put the old school
brake light, but we will save that for another day.  
What do you do if your racing master cylinder does
not have a Brake light switch? You add these little devices
and use the pressure of the brake line to activate the
brake light.  It replaces the flow bolt.


That and a brake light flasher, and we are in
business!   I also started the schematic on all of this
wiring job.  I will post it as soon as I get it completed.

 So far it is all in my head….scary!

 

49 days and counting!

 

Page 4!

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The required disclaimer: This information is about what we learned on our project and is not intended to do anything but show you how we did ours. LEARN all you can before starting any project with this much voltage.  A 9 volt battery, applied correctly, can kill you. Think about what 6 - 12 volt car batteries can do if not wired correctly .

If you feel that this page helped you save time,
effort and hopefully money, please let us know.
If you have any questions or suggestions, please contact us!